Strange Bedfellows

To say that burial customs in Key West are eclectic is an understatement. After the hurricane of 1846, the Key West Cemetery was moved to higher ground. Before that time the cemetery had been on the beach. To everyone’s dismay, the hurricane had unearthed many of the graves, so the city fathers moved the cemetery to higher ground near Solaris Hill, the highest point on the island at fourteen feet above sea level. Approximately 100,000 people are buried on that nineteen acres in the center of town, and there are approximately 100 more buried there each year. There is a Catholic section, a Jewish Section, and the USS Maine Memorial (Remember the Maine).

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On February 5,1898, The USS Maine blew up in Havana harbor killing 260 American sailors. Whether this was an Act of War or an internal explosion in the ship is still being discussed by historians. Regardless, it led to a declaration of war on Spain. dm3829Twenty bodies of sailors were brought to Key West for burial and are interred in the USS Maine Memorial. Others buried inside the iron fence of the Memorial are several other Spanish American War veterans, some Civil War era veterans, veterans of other wars, two British airmen killed in a motorcycle accident in Jacksonville, a Brazilian sailor, and a woman and a baby. There is a fetching metal statue of a nineteenth century sailor in the middle of the site, that is also a reminder of how young our sailors are when they enlist (Picture:  State Archives of  Florida/McDonald).

My family gravesite is across the way and down the street. The oldest grave is that of my Great Grandfather who came to Key West as a child of five in 1837. In later years he became sheriff of Monroe County and had four daughters, two of which were my Great Aunts who lived with us when I was a child. Their sister, my Grandmother put on her second husband’s gravestone “Gone But Not Far Away” which we always find amusing. Her first husband, my grandfather died in the 1906 hurricane. He and his brother went out to secure a boat and never came back. My father was 6 months old. There is also an unmarked grave of a woman. Nobody knows who that is. The gravesite has been badly neglected over the years. My Mom used to pay someone $2.00 a month to tend the graves. And she would come to our house once in a while to collect the money. A few months after my father died, a bronze plaque came in the mail showing that my father was a veteran of World War II. It was nice to know that the country hadn’t forgotten.

The Key West cemetery is a great site to visit. Easy to navigate by bicycle, it has some lovely statues of angels, cherubs and lambs. dm6500The graveyard’s oldness and quiet feel of abandonment gives it a spooky appearance, great for a ghost tour on Halloween

(Picture:  State Archives of Florida/McDonald).

At Higgs Beach between West Martello Tower and the White Street Pier, there is a marker for a site that experts think is the only African Refugee Cemetery in the United States. dm6467It is a remarkable story. In 1859 President Buchanan ordered American steamers to stop any American-owned slave ships. Three were captured near Cuba and 1400 African men, women and children were brought to Key West for sanctuary where the local townspeople provided them with shelter, clothes, food and medicine. Despite efforts 295 of them died and U.S. Marshal Fernando Moreno paid $1617 for their burial and thousands more for the support of the others. He petitioned the U.S. Government for repayment but none was ever received. The Africans were in Key West for about three months and were then sent to Liberia. Some died in transit, and most of those who arrived stayed in Liberia and did not return to their homes (Picture: State Archives of Florida/ McDonald).

In 2002, archaeologists performed a Ground Penetrating Radar Survey of the beach, where eleven shallow graves were discovered.dm6381 In 2010, 100 more graves were found further inland. There is a nice memorial now and the site is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places. This is a photo of when it was first discovered. (Picture: State Archives of Florida/ McDonald). The respectful burial of the refuges is a reminder of Key West’s reputation today for acceptance of any person or lifestyle. The motto for the island is “One Human Family.”

 

Museums and Musings

My absolute favorite is the beautiful Custom House. You can’t miss it, a beautiful ornate red brick building just across from the Mel Fisher Museum. rc05738It was built in 1891 as a federal building, the original home of the postal service, the customs office and the district courts (Picture:  State Archives of Florida). Today, it is a museum. There are art exhibits, always entertaining. One time a few years ago, there were life size sculptures of people in scenes from some of the better-known impressionist paintings. You could play act in them and have a companion take your picture. What fun that was. fullsizerenderThere is a movie showing the train coming to Key West in the Roaring Twenties. Those wealthy and adventurous people were dressed in the highest fashion of the times. There is a very nice exhibit with photos of Hemingway’s time in Key West in the 20’s and 30’s. And you can’t miss those two very large statues, one in front, a very stylish couple dancing, and in the back, well, you have to see it to believe it.

The Truman Little White House is located a little ways into the Navy Yard, a part of which in recent years has been given back to the city  (Picture:  State Archives of Florida/Spalding). pr30034Truman came to Key West in 1946 for a brief respite, which turned into a long stay. While here, he set up office and ran the affairs of the United States Government. Through the years, other Presidents have stayed here: Dwight D. Eisenhower, John F. Kennedy, Jimmy Carter, and Bill Clinton. I saw President Kennedy when he visited with Harold MacMillan during the Cuban Missile Crisis and President Truman when he gave a speech to the student body of Key West High School when I was a Senior.

dm0325Fort Zachary Taylor was built in the mid 1800’s to protect the southeastern coastline of the United States. It was used during the Civil War and the Spanish-American War. During pretty much all of my childhood, it was buried under a large mound of dirt and debris, with various iron shapes sticking out here and there.n049946 It was unearthed sometime in the late 60’s or early 70’s. (Here are a couple of photos, one from the late 1800’s.) It is now used for Civil War enactments during the Old Island Days Festival. img_1244Next door is the Fort Taylor State Park with one of the prettiest beaches on the island (Pictures: State Archives of Florida/McDonald, State Archives of Florida/Moffah).

Fort East Martello was built in 1869 to protect the island from confederate attacks. Although it served during the Civil War, it was never actually attacked. In 1950 the Key West Art and Historical Society turned the Fort into a museum. Because of the U.S. Naval Base, Key West remained Union during the war. My New England friend never misses an opportunity to gloat about this. dm2243There have been several ghost stories circulated involving the fort, so it has become a venue for some Halloween Events during the month of October (Picture:  State Archives of Florida/McDonald).

In 1949, Fort West Martello located at Higgs Beach was thought to be an eyesore to the shoreline and there was pressure on the County to level it. Representative Joe Allen prevailed on the Commissioners to stop the demolition. Today it is the home of the Key West Garden Club and a National Historic Site. dm6602When I was at Reynolds Elementary, I remember going there and each of us making Terrariums with a lot of help from our Garden Club friends (Picture: State Archives of Florida/McDonald). Today the gardens there are heralded as being quite spectacular, with the setting of the white sand beach and the expanse and beauty of the ocean.

Speaking of ocean, we can’t forget the Key West Turtle Museum. Ponce de Leon noticed the many Loggerhead Turtles and named several of the islands near Key West, Las Tortugas. (Spanish for ”The  Turtles”) The later name Dry Tortugas was to indicate to sailors that there was no fresh water on the island. Fort Jefferson is located on Dry Tortugas. I don’t know when the Turtle Kraals were first built, but my father, born in 1906 told me that as a child, he and his friends would ride on the backs of the turtles in the Kraalspr15176 (Picture: State Archives of Florida/Conn). My mother regularly made turtle steak for supper. She breaded it much like you would a veal cutlet. Peter said they served it at the Bachelor Officers Quarters when he was in Key West in the late sixties. Sometime in the 70’s I think, the Loggerhead Turtle was deemed endangered and so, no longer available. The museum on Margaret Street  is free and open to the public.

The rich history, museums and architecture along with the stories of the many famous people who have succumbed to the beauty and comfort of island living make Key West an interesting place to be barefoot, carefree and entertained.